Learning to Play Scopa in Italy on My Honeymoon
They say travel broadens the mind, but I didn’t realise that meant learning new card games on my honeymoon in Italy. Between marvelling at the stunning coastlines, overindulging in pasta (and wine, let’s be honest), and soaking in the cultural richness, my wife and I stumbled upon a time-honoured Italian tradition – the card game Scopa.
The Setting: Italian Charm Meets Card Games
We were somewhere in a quaint village on the Amalfi Coast, surrounded by terracotta rooftops, vines lazily creeping up pastel-coloured walls, and the smell of fresh espresso in the air. I had my heart set on doing all the stereotypical honeymoon things—long romantic walks, sunsets, taking way too many pictures. Little did I know, there was something even better waiting to be discovered at a little café: Scopa, a card game that’s been around for centuries and as much a part of Italian life as pizza.
We saw locals gathered around small tables, sipping aperitifs and slapping cards down with a passion usually reserved for a World Cup final. Curious, we edged closer and were promptly invited to join in. (Nothing makes you feel like an instant tourist quite like not knowing the rules to a game everyone else grew up with.)
What is Scopa?
For the uninitiated (as I definitely was), Scopa is a traditional Italian card game that’s easy to learn but surprisingly strategic. Its name literally means “broom” in Italian, referencing how you can ‘sweep’ the table clean of cards if you play your hand right.
The game is played with a deck of 40 cards known as a mazzo di carte, divided into four suits: cups, swords, coins, and clubs (not quite your standard 52-card deck). The aim? To capture as many cards as possible, and more specifically, to capture the most valuable ones. Cards are worth their face value, except for the 7s (more on that later).
Now, as a consultant-turned-project-manager, I like rules, systems, and frameworks. Scopa has all of these but with a unique Italian flair. It’s tactical without being mind-bending, competitive but still social – just the right level of intensity for an afternoon of leisurely competition.
Learning the Rules
So, how do you play? In brief:
The Basics: You’re dealt three cards, and four cards are placed face-up in the middle of the table. On your turn, you either capture one or more cards from the centre by playing a card from your hand that equals their sum or you place a card from your hand into the centre if no capture is possible.
Special Captures: If your card directly matches a card in the centre (e.g., you play a 5 on a 5), you can ‘sweep’ the table, scoring extra points. Hence, scopa.
Scoring: There are a few ways to score points: by capturing the most cards, the most coins (one of the suits), the 7 of coins (called the settebello), and by having the highest “prime” (a combination of certain valued cards).
The Strategy: The key to the game is in controlling the cards on the table and timing your plays. You want to set yourself up for future captures while avoiding giving your opponent easy sweeps. Simple in theory, but there’s a lot of nuance once you get into it.
Now, I’ll be honest – I got my backside handed to me in the first few rounds. But by the end of the day, I was starting to hold my own, and even manage a couple of glorious scope (plural for scopa) which, as I learned, is cause for minor celebration. Think less “jumping up and down” and more “smug grin over your aperol spritz.”
Why Scopa is More Than Just a Card Game
The beauty of Scopa is not just in its simplicity but in how it brings people together. Sitting around that table, surrounded by locals and travellers alike, I realised that the game was less about winning or losing and more about the experience. It’s about sharing stories, laughing when someone inevitably makes a silly mistake, and bonding over a shared activity that transcends language barriers.
It reminded me that travel is often less about the big-ticket experiences and more about the little moments – like learning to play a centuries-old card game in a sleepy Italian town.
Lessons From the Game
There’s a certain charm in the way Italians approach games, and I think there’s a life lesson in there somewhere. Whether it’s cards or life, it’s all about balance – between risk and reward, competition and connection. And, of course, a little bit of luck doesn’t hurt either.
Learning Scopa added a wonderful, unexpected layer to our honeymoon. Sure, we’ll always remember the sweeping views from Positano, the boat rides along the Amalfi, and the food – oh, the food. But equally, we’ll cherish those lazy afternoons spent playing cards with strangers who soon became friends.
Bringing Scopa Back Home
By the time we left Italy, I was hooked. We picked up a deck of Scopa cards as a memento of the trip, and it’s now our go-to game for lazy Sunday afternoons. It’s also a great way to bring a bit of Italy back into our lives, no matter where we are. Plus, it’s a fantastic way to impress your friends at the next game night – you can casually drop, “Oh, have you ever played Scopa? I learned it in Italy on my honeymoon,” and watch as everyone gets curious.
If you ever find yourself in Italy, I highly recommend giving Scopa a go. It’s a slice of Italian life wrapped up in a deceptively simple card game. And who knows? You might just find yourself, like me, happily hooked for life.
Final Tip: When playing in Italy, don’t be surprised if your opponent offers you unsolicited advice during the game – especially if they’re losing. It’s all part of the charm!
Conclusion
My honeymoon gave me more than just beautiful memories of Italy – it taught me a new card game, a new tradition, and a new way to connect with people from another culture. So, whether you’re planning your next trip to Italy or looking for a fun, easy-to-learn game that you can whip out at a gathering, give Scopa a shot. You won’t regret it!
Plus, if you lose, you can always blame it on the limoncello.